How to Properly Winterize a Jon Boat (and Trailer)

Are you one of those boat owners who launches on the first sunny spring day and runs until the snow starts to flurry? If so, you are not alone, the last thing most boat owners want to do is put the boat away for the winter. The important things is that you properly winterize your boat, and make minor repairs, prior to storage. Simply parking your rig at the end of the driveway and waiting for spring could lead to serious damage and expensive repairs come next season. Let us help you learn what you need to take care of now to be ready when that first sunny day arrives again.

Why winterize your jon boat?

Your boat may be built for the water, but it is not built to withstand cold temperatures or ice. Winterization removes residual water from many of the mechanical systems, treats the engine to prevent cold weather damage, avoiding potentially expensive repairs. If you also use this time to identify and repair minor wear and tear you can be prepared for worry free use as soon as the weather breaks.

Any marina or boat repair shop will gladly winterize your boat for a moderate fee. However, if you have some simple tools and basic mechanical abilities you can do it yourself as well. Not only will you save some money, but you will also learn a little more about how your boat operates and be better prepared to address minor repairs throughout the season.

Start With a Clean Boat

It is always best to end every season, or start every winterization, with a clean slate. You need to detail your boat bow to stern and everywhere in between. Not only will grime left in place over the winter appear even more unsightly come spring it can lead to potential damage or corrosion.

Bath Time the first step is to wash all external surfaces with a soft cloth or sponge, warm water and mild cleaner or soap. Dish detergent works well, but if cleaning the boat near the water make sure to use a bio-degradable, environmentally safe product such as Super Suds Bio-Kleen.

Bilges, heavy stains and areas below the waterline may need a stronger, more aggressive cleaner coupled with a power sprayer especially if they are affected by heavy algae build up. These areas will be much easier to clean when still wet. Once clean dry the surface to avoid water spots and apply a complete coat of wax or another appropriate hull protectant.

Polish Wood & Metal – nothing looks as good as teak & brass or shiny stainless surfaces, but neither likes being exposed to water. Over the course of a season each will start to fade or corrode, if left unattended this will soon turn to unsightly rot and pitting. After the washing is complete be sure to polish all wood and metal surfaces. Brasso is a favorite for cleaning a wide variety of metal surfaces, but window clean can do a equally good job on chrome – plus you can shine the windows at the same time.

Vinyl & Carpet Too – it is hard to avoid getting at least some grease, grime and dirt on the upholstery and carpet over the course of a busy summer. Not only does this start to look dingy it will also cause these surfaces to prematurely wear, which will eventually lead to costly replacement. Taking a few minutes to vacuum, wipe down and even shampoo the vinyl and carpet will improve the appearance and life expectancy of both.

Repair Damage – when you are cleaning the hull is a perfect time to identify and repair minor hull damage. Small dents in aluminum can be tapped out with a hammer and wooden block or popped out with dent puller. Small chips, scratches or gouges in fiberglass can be addressed with at home repair kits, if they are not too deep, and water has not entered the lower layers. If you are unsure of how serious the damage is, or if water has penetrated the lower layers, consult a professional. Cracks and spiderwebbing often indicates more serious damage, usually resulting from striking a solid object, and should always be inspected by a professional. For more reading on repairing riveted and welded jon boats see our Jon Boat Hull Guide.

Mechanical Components

This is where we get to the real nitty gritty of winterization – protecting the mechanical components from potential damage. If water is not removed it can freeze as the temperature drops, damaging hoses and seals. In worse case scenarios freezing water can even crack and engine block. Other items, such as batteries or steering cables, simply need basic attention to avoid damage from being left unused for long periods. None of these preventative maintenance measures are especially difficult to perform and most can be done in your very own driveway or backyard.

Outboard – properly cleaning and preparing the engine for winter is one of the most time-consuming aspect of winterization, but left undone can lead to severe damage and very costly repairs, or even engine replacement.

  • Required tools – garden hose, lower flushing attachment, fuel can, screw driver set, assorted wrenches, drain pan, engine oil, gear oil and 1-2 gallons of gasoline.
  • Mix 16:01 ratio gas and oil in fuel can. I prefer to use a portable can as it allows for easier transport and can be used for multiple boats.
  • Attach hose & flushing attachment to lower unit and gas tank to fuel intake.
  • Run engine a low to medium speed for 3-5 minutes. Disconnect fuel supply and run engine until it cuts out.
  • Remove spark plugs and inspect for damage or fouling. I prefer to replace each plug at this point, but you can reuse plugs if still serviceable.
  • Place drain pan under lower unit and remove prop, lower drain and vent screws.
  • As oil drains inspect it for metal flacks and filings or milky color – signs of abnormal wear or water. If either is present have engine inspected by mechanic.
  • Replace vent screw and lower drain and refill with gear oil. To avoid air being trapped in system leave each loose until you see oil seeping out, then tighten and finish filling to capacity.
  • Inspect prop for damage.
  • Inspect shaft and seal for damage or debris such as fishing line.
  • Top of oil and replace oil & gas filters (if equipped)
  • Top off fuel tanks and add stabilizer such as Sta-Bil Marine.

Batteries

Your batteries are your lifeline when on the water. They allow you to start the motor, operate the navigation lights and even use the radio to call for help. But because they are covered and hidden from view, they are also often forgotten. Now is the time to make sure they are ship shape.

  • Always remove batteries during extended storage. Not only can they discharge over time, but mice can chew on wires and potentially start a fire.
  • Inspect for damage and replace if any is found.
  • Thoroughly clean post, lightly sanding if needed to remove corrosion. Apply a thin coat of petroleum jelly to protect until summer.
  • Clean and inspect cable for damage.
  • Store batteries in clean, dry location. Never place directly on concrete surface and inspect monthly.
  • Place on slow charge as per individual instructions prior to reinstalling.

Bilges

If your boat is equipped with bilges, live wells, cooler or other areas capable of holding or collecting water it is vital that these areas be clean and dry prior to storage. Jack your trailer up until it is slightly higher at the front and remove all drain plugs, letting any water run out. For extra peace of mind wipe out each compartment with a dry cloth.

If your bilge is equipped with a pump it is important to winterize it as well. If ignored even a little water can freeze inside the pump and ruin it over winter. The easiest way to protect your pump is to allows a small amount of anti-freeze to run through the pump prior to storage, just remember to flush it with clean water before launching next spring.

Cover Everything

Unless you will be storing your boat in a secure, pest-free and climate control location it is best to cover it for added protection. At the very least you will want to cover the entire boat with a large tarp, secured to prevent flapping or excessive movement as this can result in unsightly hull wear.

If your boat is equipped with a custom cover this is even better than a tarp as it will provide more secure fit and is less likely to lead to damage. Many boat owners prefer to have their boats shrink wrapped, a process similar to covering the entire boat with heavy duty plastic wrap. This is an excellent way to protect your boat from a wide range of winter dirt and damage, but it will require professional installation.

Regardless of which method you choose to cover your boat if you store it outside it is important to protect it from collecting snow or rain. Install support poles or block to prevent snow or water from collecting and potentially tearing the cover.

The Trailer

Now that you have prepared your boat for storage it is time to do the same for the trailer. Unfortunately, the trailer is one of the most neglected items associated with any boat. Even owners who keep their boat in tip top condition often park the trailer for the season and forget about it. Sitting unused can be even more damaging that using the trailer every weekend.

In either case a properly functioning trailer is a vital part of enjoying your boat. An uncared-for trailer can leave you stranded, or even worse, cause a serious accident. Your trailer is just as susceptible to winter damage as the boat it carries, and this is the perfect time to winterize it as well.

Winterizing your trailer is even easier than doing the same to your boat. All you need is a grease gun, bearing grease, lug wrench, screw driver set, spray lubricant, trailer jack & jack stands (or cement blocks) and spare light bulbs.

I prefer to start at the front of the trailer and work my way backwards; inspecting, cleaning and repairing (if necessary) as I go. This lets you keep track of where you are in the process, and if interrupted pick up where you left off.

Hitch Coupler – coupler failures are rare, but if they occur can be disastrous. Clean away and dirt, grease or debris. Inspect all surface for cracks or signs on unusual wear and replace if present. Check all fittings to insure they operate properly and tighten or loosen as needed. Make sure all bolts connecting coupler to trailer are tight and undamaged. Apply spray lubricant.

Wiring Harness – this is one of the most often damaged components of any trailer. If dragged for only a few feet it can wear to the point of being useable. If left laying on the ground during storage it can become home to insects or simply caked with mud – both of which prevent proper use. Check for damage, debris or loose connections and repair or replace as needed.

Winch – unwind the full length of your winch cable or strap and inspect for damage, cleaning any grease or dirt that could cause damage when placed under load. Check connections at both ends to insure they are tight and inspect hook, lubricating fitting to smooth operation. Clean and lubricate gears and levers. Respool cable or strap properly laying on spool and insuring it winds & unwinds properly.

Bunks and Rollers – Whether your trailer is equipped with carpeted bunks or rollers it is important to inspect each at least annually. Both are subject to rot, corrosion and potential failure. Considering they need to be capable of holding the entire weight of your boat and gear keeping them in tip top shape is vital for safe, uninterrupted use.

  • Inspect carpet for wear, tears or other signs of damage. Any damaged carpet should be replaced.
  • Inspect each bunk both visually and by touch for signs of broken, cracked or warped board. Replace any that show signs of either.
  • Inspect all bolts, fittings or metal connections for corrosion.
  • If equipped with pivot fittings lubricate with spray lubricant.
  • Inspect rollers or worn or broken pieces, replacing as needed.
  • Clean roller shafts to insure smooth operation.
  • If equipped with grease fitting lubricate according to manufacturer instructions, otherwise apply spray lubricant.

Trailer Frame

The frame of your trailer is designed to be extremely durable, but that does not mean it is invincible to damage. Unfortunately, this damage often occurs in the unseen underside or inside channels not readily visible during normal use. If you do not conduct regular inspections the damage could be fatal by the time it is discovered. Clean the frame completely, paying special attention to the channels, hidden ledges and underside areas. Once dry inspect all surfaces for rust, damage or cracking. Do not forget to include springs, if equipped, which can also be coated with spray lubricant.

Tires

Trailer tires rarely wear out, instead they die a slow death due to dry rot. This can be avoided with five simple steps:

  1. Jack the trailer so you can access all sides of the tire
  2. Clean tire thoroughly
  3. Spray with Armour All or similar protective solution
  4. Check tire pressure frequently
  5. Park on rubber mat or wooden planks during storage

Wheel Bearings

Your wheels include bearing, which are packed with grease to protect against friction. Most trailers include covers that protect the bearing assemblies, but they still require routine maintenance.  If you want to avoid costly repairs and make this maintenance as easy as possible it is recommended you have Bearing Buddies, or a similar device installed. This will allow re-greasing to be accomplished without complete removal of the wheel and repacking of the bearings.

If Bearing Buddies are installed top of the grease levels according to instructions. Otherwise, it is recommended you have a mechanic inspect bearing, and repack if necessary, during annual inspection.

Lights

Trailer lights fail more than you would expect. Wire short, housing crack and bulbs burn out. Many lights will fail simply because they are exposed to water when hot, not something you expect from a boat trailer. Obviously, it is important to insure your lights are properly functioning every time you hit the road, both to avoid an accident and a ticket.

Many problems can be avoided by shutting off and unplugging trailer electrical system prior to backing into the water. However, this does not eliminate the need to inspect everything frequently. Now is as good a time as any. Test all lights. Replace any not functioning bulbs, loose wiring or broken lenses. Remove all lenses, pull bulbs, clean sockets and replace bulbs & lenses.

Conclusion

A properly maintained boat and trailer will provide years of carefree fun and relaxation for you, your family and friends. By spending a small amount of time and money during the winterization process you can not only avoid unnecessary damage, and the loss of time & money for repair, you can also be the first one on the water when spring arrives. Enjoying a 3 hour tour while others are sitting in line at the repair shop.